Slow Car Fast
THE MG
June 19, 2010 - The rear axle, fuel tank and panhard bar have all been given a coat of POR-15.
So has the pedal box. I also hit some of the brackets welded on the car to use up some of the leftover paint. Once the tank is dry, I can do the final installation and not have to take it out again. Woohoo!
entry 350 - tags: paint, fuel, axle
June 23, 2010 - Work continues, but not too quickly.
I've been moving slowly - but the main power lines from the trunk-mounted battery to the starter, alternator and main breaker are now all in place. The breaker can be tripped manually so I can kill the power to the car if required.
I'm now trying to figure out how to run the original MG wiring harness up to the front of the car. It'll continue to handle housekeeping chores like brake lights, fuel level and turn signals. The problem is the hot exhaust criss-crossing under the car - I want to keep the wiring clear of it. The main power line runs through the transmission tunnel, but the MG harness is about 4-6" too short to work that way. I'll play with it again tonight and see if I can find a bit of extra length.
entry 351 - tags: wiring
June 28, 2010 - I haven't been working on the MG of late, but I've been acquiring more skills that will come in handy.
I've had to do a bit of bodywork on another car and it's forcing me to develop the ability to lay down paint nicely and also develop more patience! The car in question is a deep, deep black that I'm going to use on the MG, so it's teaching me just how unforgiving black can be.
Once this is resprayed to an acceptable finish, I'm going to dive back into the MG. But I don't think it's going to be driving in a month and a half, an unofficial target I'd set for myself. Not unless I really start to focus and maybe take a few days off work. Sigh.
entry 352 - tags: body, paint
July 17, 2010 - Okay, there's that done.
The black bumper was painted, then sanded down again and painted again. I learned a huge amount about sanding on compound curves, surface prep, paint gun setup and the general unforgiveness of shiny black paint. But now I'm in pretty good shape to paint the MG. Not that I'll remember any of this when it comes time to paint! I also made a trip back to Canada for a week or so.
But now it's time to get cracking. I have to drop a differential off at the drivetrain shop for work, so I figured I'd bring the Camaro and MG axles in for their diff swap at the same time. I don't know how to set up a rear end and I'm happy to let someone else do it for me. So I jacked up the Camaro and had at it with the tools. An hour later, the rear end was free in the driveway.
Note the very large boards underneath the jackstands, this car is not going to sink into the gravel, fall off the stands and kill me.
entry 353 - tags: Camaro, differential, rear axle, paint
July 17, 2010 - Here's a peek at the differential from the Camaro.
In 1998, the Z28 came with a Positraction differential. In 1999, that was changed to a Torsen. This is a Posi, although I do have to admit to resorting to Google to make sure I wasn't looking at some sort of Phantom Grip nastiness.
Miatas used Torsens from 1994, and it's a great differential. Very easy to drive. But the V8 cars we've been building at Flyin' Miata have been using a differential from a Cadillac CTS-V, and I've been very impressed with their ability to lay down power. The theoretical increase in turn-in understeer hasn't been a problem. I'm pretty sure it's a very similar Positraction to this one. So I'm happy that my donor came with this unit.
entry 354 - tags: differential, rear axle
July 18, 2010 - Progress!
Although it doesn't look like it. I pulled the engine and transmission out one more time. This will let me finish the sheetmetal work in the engine bay and elsewhere in the transmission tunnel. I'll also finish some welding on the frame and then paint everything.
Meanwhile, the transmission has to come off so I can change the lines to the slave cylinder. The sealed one-piece setup from the Camaro isn't going to work, so I'm going to do something similar to the setup used by Flyin' Miata. The MG master is the right size (lucky!) and so I just need to find the right banjo bolts.
Once the chassis is prepped and ready, I'll stuff the engine back inside for what will hopefully be the final time!
entry 355 - tags: assembly, clutch
July 20, 2010 - Welding time!
I've started to panel the engine bay. This will increase the rigidity of the front end, which is my primary goal. You can see the right front corner (on the left in this picture) is done, including some special bulges to clear the control arm. The left rear is also done, leaving a large hole for the headers to pass through. I could make this hole smaller, but then I'd only be able to remove the headers when the engine is out of the car. I can see that particular problem coming back to bite me! For a bit of extra strength, there's also a 1" square tube along the top of the left rear plate.
You can also see the unusually shaped motor mounts, including the one that has to reach over the steering column. Or at least, you could if I'd managed to take the picture in focus.
The engine bay looks pretty awful right now with all the different colors. I also have to admit that some of the welding to the original sheetmetal is not well done. But it'll be strong enough, and a bit of time with the grinder, some seam sealer and a POR-15 paintbrush will make it all look good. First, I have to finish some more patching and a bit more bracing.
entry 356 - tags: engine bay, sheetmetal
July 27, 2010 - More welding.
I was hesitant to add this photo, as it shows some pretty ugly welding. I cut that front plate a bit too short and had to do some filling in with the welder. It's not structural and it'll look fine when ground down, but it sure looks nasty right now. At least the important stuff is good.
Anyhow, the sheetmetal in the engine bay is moving along. I still need to add some reinforcements and patches in various places, as sharp eyes will attest. It's hot, dirty work, but it's pretty rewarding.
entry 357 - tags: sheetmetal
July 27, 2010 - I had to move the VIN plate on the car.
The intake tube wants to go through the middle of it. It was covered in 2-3 layers of paint and looked pretty nasty, so it got a quick trip through the bead blaster. Voila!
entry 358
August 4, 2010 - More welding.
It's hot and dirty work doing the fabrication and welding in the engine bay and under the car, but I'm gradually getting through it. The engine bay is almost completely paneled now, but I still have to do some finishing. Then it's underneath to finish up some frame rail work.
I did pick up the rear axle from the driveline shop today, though. All new bearings, all set up with the Positraction rear. All I need to do is stick the axles in, mount the brakes and voila, that's done. It wasn't a cheap visit to the driveline shop, but at least I know everything's done right and I shouldn't have to do anything to it for a long, long time.
entry 359 - tags: axle, differential, fabrication
August 12, 2010 - Welding, welding, welding.
I'm working my way through the car, finishing up all the half-welded sections and fabricating patches for the various holes I had to cut. Some of that work is pretty complex, too - this section of the driver's footwell is assembled out of 9 pieces, including one that wraps around into that big circular cutout for the steering column. Some of the welding isn't pretty. That's what happens when you're trying to work inside/under a car that's on jackstands and hasn't been bead-blasted to nice clean metal. This was some awkward work. I actually sat on the steering rack for some of it.
The good news is that I'm almost done! I just have to finish welding in part of the transmission tunnel and I can move on.
entry 360 - tags: fabrication
August 12, 2010 - All of the seams on the cockpit will be sealed with seam sealer to ensure they're air/water tight.
Some of the others in the engine bay - like this one - will simply get ground down before paint. Not all of them need to be, but the ugly ones do. The only piece of stock sheetmetal in this picture is the bit at the upper left with the leftover Aqua paint on it and a little bit at the upper right!
entry 361 - tags: fabrication, engine bay
August 12, 2010 - While I was playing with the welder, I decided to take one more shot at welding the new rear frame rail to the bottom of the car.
Previously, I'd found it almost impossible to weld the two together without burning through the floor. So the rail was attached with rosette welds through the top. But it just looked wrong when you peeked underneath.
With a different technique, I was able to make this happen. I'm much happier with that.
entry 362 - tags: frame rails, suspension
August 16, 2010 - So, I had to wash the Bonneville salt off the M5.
Janel and I went to Speed Week this past weekend. How cool is that? Anyhow, I took the opportunity to roll the LS1/T56 combo outside to clean it off as well. First, I pulled the coils off so I could get to the valve covers underneath. Then hosed the whole thing down with some degreaser and hit it with the hose.
Nothing too exciting, really. But the engine looks goooood!
entry 363 - tags: engine
August 19, 2010 - The sheet metal work is basically done.
There's still just a little bit of work to do once the transmission and rear end is back in, but it's time to start getting ready for the final drivetain installation.
The first step was seam sealer. This made me nice and messy, so I didn't take any pictures! But I sealed every seam that was involved in the interior - the footwells, the transmission tunnel and the ventilation system that had to be cut out and reassembled. So now the engine bay was black, green, rusty, bare and more black. Yuk.
entry 364 - tags: fabrication
August 19, 2010 - A coat of paint made all the difference to the car.
I used POR-15, my favorite rust paint. It's what I used on the Seven and Basil the Land Rover. I've found it to be tough and long-lived. It's also really easy to put on with a brush, flowing into a nice smooth coat and easy to touch up later. I use disposable chip brushes because it's almost impossible to clean them.
The end result looks good! Nice and shiny with a distinct lack of nasty surface rust. I painted the new metal under the car as well to protect it. I missed a few spots (of course!) and I have to move the jackstands to access a couple more, but overall it really looks good.
You can see the hole for the air intake in this shot as well.
entry 365 - tags: paint
August 19, 2010 - I've also been playing with the engine.
The most obvious is the new white headers. They were starting to pick up some surface rust sitting around the garage, so I grabbed a can of high temperature header paint to give them a nice coat. Black would have hidden the welding better, but I'm a sucker for white headers as followers of the Targa Miata know. I think they look awesome. Why paint and not ceramic? Because that's expensive and I've had pretty good luck with this paint. It'll do for now.
I also swapped the original Camaro intake manifold for my Corvette one. This isn't due to any sort of performance increase, but because I painted it to look like aluminum! Of course, it's not completely convincing. But it's a nice change from the usual black plastic and I think it'll look even better as it ages - ie, gets a little bit of dirt on it.
The Corvette manifold does have two differences, though. First, it doesn't have a hole for an EGR fitting, so I won't need to plug that. Good. Secondly, it doesn't have threaded holes for the throttle cable due to the drive-by-wire Corvette. Umm, bad. I'll fix that.
With the dressed engine sitting beside the painted rear axle and with the car freshly painted up, things are looking really nice!
entry 366 - tags: engine, paint
August 23, 2010 - Exciting stuff - the fuel filler is in place.
Well, actually, this is exciting. It means the gas tank is bolted into place for the last time. The assembly I'm doing now is final assembly, and that's the exciting part. Real progress: the pile of parts around the car is shrinking!
Originally, the fuel filler on the tank entered the trunk floor straight below the filler neck. You can see the patched and repainted hole in this picture - it'll be covered by sound deadening or carpet when the car is assembled. Since I had to move the tank over to make room for the exhaust, I had to make the filler wiggle over a few inches. A bit of back-room shopping at NAPA yielded a filler hose with a 45 degree angle. It worked out perfectly.
entry 367 - tags: fuel
August 24, 2010 - The differential in its final home.
Quite colorful! Hopefully, this will be the last glimpse of it I see for a while, it's time to button this thing up.
entry 368 - tags: axle
August 24, 2010 - Before I can install the axles for the final time, it's time to put the studs in.
I tried to overthink this and attempted to press them in with my big bench vice. Whoops - one broken vice. I couldn't get the geometry right to press them in with the press at work. So I figured I'd try what I considered the last resort and use a lug nut to pull them in. That spacer has a nice thick wall so it's strong, and the washer lets the lug spin against it.
And whaddya know, it was quick and easy. I hit the lug nut with the impact and the stud just sucked into place in a couple of seconds. Why did I try so hard?
entry 369 - tags: axles, stud